What did the Jews of Kaifeng Eat?

 

We know close to nothing about the cuisine of the Kaifeng Jewish community.  And in a wider sense, we know very little of their domestic lives.  The Jesuits who visited the community cared little about gastronomical life.  They wanted the Kaifeng Jewish books - they did not care to note what they served for dinner.  

We only know one 'fact' about their eating.  They were called by their Chinese neighbors the Sect that Pluck the Sinews.  This is a rather specific and strange reference to a difficult to observe custom: removing the sciatic nerve during the slaughter of kosher animals.  Has this relatively minor practices ever been noted by any non-Jewish community before, let alone a Jewish community named for this practice?  For the Chinese, the sect that does not eat pork would have made more sense; but perhaps that was far too broad for Chinese people; they needed to differentiate the Muslim Hui peoples in Kaifeng from the Jews.  

But it is a good bet the cuisine of Muslims in Kaifeng mirrored that of the Jews.  Both had the same historical, social, linguistic and regional background.  They both hailed from Persian speaking people's of Central Asian.  The cuisine they would have brought to Hunan would have reflected that background.  In time, the flat breads and herd animal diet of the "stans" would have been blended with Hunan cuisine.  AI, which is generally good at providing summaries of food (as it has a great deal of varied information to draw from) notes Kaifeng Muslim food as such:  

Kaifeng's Muslim food, primarily from the local Hui people, features savory lamb and beef dishes, often found in vibrant night markets like Gulou Square (Drum Tower), with staples like spiced mutton skewers (Chuanr), lamb dumplings (Jianbao/Shumai), and hearty noodle soups, all following Islamic dietary laws (no pork) and using wheat as a staple. Look for halal restaurants and stalls (Qingzhen Cai) selling these flavorful, often spicy, Central Asian-influenced snacks and meals. 

Must-Try Dishes & Flavors:

• Mutton Skewers (Chuanr): Grilled lamb, often seasoned with cumin and chili.
• Pan-Fried Lamb Dumplings (Jianbao): Crispy outside, juicy lamb and chive filling.
• Beef & Onion Dishes: Savory fillings in buns or pastries, often with a crispy exterior.
• Noodle Soups: Clear broths with beef or lamb.
• Hui Naan Bread (Nan): A staple, often enjoyed with meat. 

Where to Find It:

• Gulou Square (Drum Tower): A bustling night market area with numerous Muslim food stalls.
• Dongjiao Night Market (East Suburb): Another great spot for authentic Hui street food.
• Halal Restaurants (Qingzhen Cai): Look for these signs in markets and near attractions. 

Key Characteristics:

• Main Ingredients: Mutton, beef, wheat.
• Spices: Cumin, chili, often Middle Eastern/Central Asian influences.
• Dietary Laws: Pork-free, adhering to Islamic dietary laws (Halal).
• Staple: Wheat-based foods like noodles and buns, not rice. 

The lack of rice is of special interest.  We would expect Kaifeng Jews to eat a great deal of rice dishes, but based on modern halel foods in the area, their starches were probably from wheat products.  

There are two entertaining videos of Muslim street food in Kaifeng:

Street Food

Kaifeng Imam